ワールドカップ！
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup Series 2022 kicked off at the beginning of April, in Meiringen, Switzerland, traveled all the way to Seoul, South Korea, and are about to land on the third, different continent in less than two months.
Following the first-ever back-to-back of IFSC events, organised in May 2021, Salt Lake City, Utah, USA, is about to welcome three IFSC events in the span of ten days: two IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cups – scheduled from 20 to 22, and from 27 to 29 May – and an IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup, taking place on 24 and 25 May.
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Boulder Times
M1
13:55 FRA Schalck
15:49 JPN Kawamata
19:49 AUT Uznik
23:01 JPN Ogata
24:40 GER Flohé
26:27 AUT Schubert
M2
29:45 FRA Schalck
32:45 JPN Kawamata
37:24 AUT Uznik
42:03 JPN Ogata
44:15 GER Flohé
48:35 AUT Schubert
M3
56:36 FRA Schalck
1:00:58 JPN Kawamata
1:04:38 AUT Uznik
1:09:30 JPN Ogata
1:14:21 GER Flohé
1:18:51 AUT Schubert
M4
1:25:13 FRA Schalck
1:29:18 JPN Kawamata
1:34:12 AUT Uznik
1:39:02 JPN Ogata
1:42:45 GER Flohé
1:47:03 AUT Schubert
W1
2:04:06 JPN Nonaka
2:08:55 ITA Moroni
2:13:22 AUT Pilz
2:18:32 USA Grossman
2:24:45 AUT Sterrer
2:29:15 USA Raboutou
W2
2:34:47 JPN Nonaka
2:37:18 ITA Moroni
2:39:32 AUT Pilz
2:41:25 USA Grossman
2:43:29 AUT Sterrer
2:45:42 USA Raboutou
W3
2:51:12 JPN Nonaka
2:55:40 and 3:15:20 ITA Moroni
3:00:16 AUT Pilz
3:03:40 USA Grossman
3:06:03 AUT Sterrer
3:11:55 USA Raboutou
W4
3:19:11 JPN Nonaka
3:21:14 ITA Moroni
3:25:53 AUT Pilz
3:30:52 USA Grossman
3:33:21 AUT Sterrer
3:37:58 USA Raboutou
This was such a fun final to watch! Great routesetting, exciting moments from Rei, Jessica, Brooke, and more. I was on the edge of my seat the whole time 😃
Wonderful Women’s Final. Excitement, drama, & championship climbing W4 – had to top to podium and that’s just what all three did.
No shame the others tho, world class athletes every finalist – they battled all the way. BRAVO
Rei Kawamata’s Houdini match at 1:30:44 was insane! So gutted that he didn’t get the top there, glad he came out with a bronze for his performance
Amazing performance from all the climbers. Really glad to see Mejdi take home his first ever gold, he really deserved it!
Also very amazing to see Brooke have a comeback from losing the top on the first boulder by less than a second all the way to get silver. I really want to give her that top, but I know it just wouldn’t be fair because it was 1 second too late. The silver lining is that even if she was awarded that top she would still have gotten silver, so she wasn’t robbed of a podium place.
Men’s Final Comment: That M1 was way too easy. It actually worried me, but the following boulders proved to be decent routesetting. Also, I was worried that it would be like that SLC 2021 finals (only techy slabs for women, parkour double & triple dynos for men) – so really glad that there were slabs and a variety of moves both technical & dynamic. I feel for Jakob Schubert (he has the ability to flash all 4 boulders), but I think everyone understood it just wasn’t his comp this time.
Nicolai Uznik put up a great fight, as did Yannick Flohe. And Yoshiyuki Ogata continued to reliably prove his talent. But Mejdi Schalck & Rei Kawamata! <3 Congratulations to them - both so young and really showing their talent here. Mejdi getting his first ever gold & Rei getting his 1st ever podium place with the bronze. They must be thrilled! With climbers like Jakob, Yannick, and Ogata in the finals - I think it's normal to maybe assume they'll be the most likely to podium (higher percentage chance). So I'm really happy that the others got to show their stuff.
I found the commentators a bit distracting due to the non-stop talking, but overall it was an enjoying event. Good job, climbers!
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Although some of the boulders might have been a little too easy, credit to the routesetters for creating some spectacular boulders, especially the slab setting. Incredible all-round performance by Mejdi – what a climber! With Janja not competing, Natalia is in a class of her own and will surely win all the bouldering world cups this season.
Half way through. The men’s final was great. Love seeing Jakob in a final again. Really interesting route setting.
Great competition! Good job to all the competitors! You have all shown true sportsmanship. Congrats, Mejdi and Natalia!
Awesome route setting and performances from the athletes. Thank you!
That second to last move on M2 with the jump into the awkward gaston is impressive every time I see it.
SLC always seems to have the easiest final boulders on the circuit. Esp for Women. Congrats to the athletes – insane climbing as always.
Big congrats to Mejdi on his first gold! I think Mejdi, Kei, and Paul Jenft are the future of Mens bouldering, three exceptionally strong and young climbers who still have so many years left. Kei’s precise pocket finger swap on M4 was absolutely insane. Also turns out that even without Tomoa and Fujii, the Japanese can still dominate the podium?? haha
Couldn’t have asked for a better podium for the Womens. Fitting to have Natalia win Gold and Brooke win her first Silver at home, and glad to see Miho bounce back since not making Semi’s in Meiringin.
Brooke was awesome, can’t wait to see her get gold in the future!
I was always in awe of Janjas dominance and have nothing but respect for her. But I also was ready for women finals where I would not know the winner before it even started.
In comes Natalia (with a big smile) and absolutely dominates … Impressive climbing from her but I still kind of hope for some upsets in the womens competition.
It would be great if IFSC found commentators who pay attention to what they are commenting. 4TH boulder: they start by saying that Miho cannot reach the podium… while she did (mathematically she could even win), then again same thing for Brooke who got the silver.
Shoutout to the commentators, they did a great job of explaining all the simple stuff to people like me who had this randomly show up in their recommended videos for some reason when it was live.
One of the commentators doesnt seem to be able to predict positions based on current scores when not all have climbed the same boulder… Saying Nonaka couldnt podium after she did the last boulder, when she in fact became first after that top, if others didnt zone shed be first obviously, lol
Every time this guy says ‘directional force’ or ‘absolute masterclass’ I die inside
Would have been nice if we could have at least seen in replay the front on shot of Miho’s top of problem 2.
Lol is that Colin Duffy in the thumbnail when he didn’t make semis? Rubbing a bit of salt in the wound on that one huh? Great competition! Some of the boulders definitely seemed too easy (more credit to the climbers rather than a slight to the route setters) but they were all really fun to watch.